Bike ride in Thailand

Why Thailand?

In January 2025, I did a “South India” trip on a motorbike conducted by “Goodwind Moto Tours”. I immensely liked it. They announced a ride in Thailand amongst other destinations like Greece, Morocco etc.

(https://nsmcyberdude-thoughts.blogspot.com/2025/01/my-first-long-motorbike-ride.html)

I’m a conservative guy, after South India, thought Thailand would be a good choice. They drive on the same side as we do in India. The traffic is more disciplined and roads much better. So, it had to be my first “outside of India” biking trip and I enthusiastically signed up.

Another reason was that I had neglected my health (particularly exercising) and my Son-in-law, Ashwin said “you are goal driven, sign up for some adventure and you will work for that, hence get back the muscle strength”. Do we really need a reason to ride a bike? Well, needed a legit one!

Physical fitness

2025 was a hectic year of international travel for me from work point and I hadn’t got much time to exercise and strengthen my leg and core muscles. That put me on a weak wicket for a long trip. Knee pain was terrible and I was limping badly by August. Decided that I need to focus on improving my health. 

September and October were months of good physiotherapy, thanks to Dr. Arathi Prasad of Ramakrishna nursing home and my physical trainer at “Cult”, Nagendra Babu. This was helped by a 7 days stay at “Kshemavana”, a naturopathy retreat with intense physio, different massages, aqua exercises, yoga, no-carb, protein diet and pranayama 

Preps 

A quick visit to Italy / Milan in the beginning of November to the reputed motorbike show EICMA and seeing Honda Nx500 made me like a kid looking forward for a nice Disneyland trip.

I had made check list earlier for my South India trip, I updated the same with some additions/deletions/modifications. I had to get my International driving license checked if it was valid for biking too and it was.

It’s always a nice occasion to update the safety gear and hence decided to fly in a day early to Bangkok and visit “Paddock biking store” to pick up a few biking gears. I was ably advised by my biking guru Bosky (Big Bear Bangalore - Arun).

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Pledging for Road safety with Bosky 

So a Klim Mesh jacket (from “big bad bikes”), new helmet, ear plugs, new pairs of gloves, a few balaclavas, pinlock etc. got added to my overflowing biking gear set, much to the discomfort of my wife! Thankfully, when we renovated our place, I got some dedicated space for my riding gear and my golf stuff. 

High on expectations ..

There was a lot of buzz that good quality riding gear is more affordable in Thailand. Got good recommendations about a place called “Pro Paddock”. Decided to go to Bangkok a day early and visit this place. While it was good, it wasn’t extraordinary for me. While I did get tempted to buy to Shoei modular helmet, somehow chickened out and did not pick it up (already had Schubert modular and Airho full face). Bought some Balaclavas and few odd stuff. The day was spent on gorging on the delicious Thai food and ended with a great relaxing Thai massage at Healthland Spa. 

Boys get the toys

We were 8 + 2 riders (8 participating and two being the lead Khun George and Amit Desai from GMT being the sweep). 

We flew into Chiang Mai and settled down at the “Smile Lanna” hotel, it did bring out smiles for all of us in this “Land of smiles”. 

In the late afternoon we all were driven in a van to get our bikes.

Mr. Daniel and his son, Stefan from Bike tour Asia were waiting for us with the bikes ready. 

We were so excited to see the bikes lined up.

We did the mandatory legal, insurance and other paperwork work. A briefing was done by Khun George and Khun Bom.

Briefing by Khun George, Khun Bom and Amit

We familiarised ourselves with the bike and it was time to get moving. We eased ourselves into the Chiang Mai traffic, cautiously testing the bike, the feel of gears, brakes etc.

We boys got our toys. 

We ended the day with a nice Thai dinner and a walk down the busy “Walking street” selling Thai curios, street food.

Day 1 - Chiang Mai to Nan

The day’s ride briefing

Our backup & luggage van

An approximate 280-300 kms ride. Started off with a days briefing & we weaved out of the city traffic. Soon we we were in mountains doing some benign twisties. That was good as I had to get familiarised with the bike. I took it easy and as the day progressed, improved my understanding of the bike. I nudged and challenged myself to tentatively push up the speed in these mountainous roads. I wanted to test the edges of my comfort zone, but still stay safe. I enjoyed this first day. 

The roads were fantastic and traffic disciplined. 

On our way we stopped at Mae Kachan hot water spring to see that nature’s wonder. 

We reached Nan and it was time to celebrate the safe ride. We said “Chaiyyo” with “Chang” beer!

Day 2 - Nan to Chiang Rai

Oh what a fabulous day of ride it was!

The previous day morning ride was a bit of chilly ride and hence we all decided to wear our rain jacket on the top as a wind cheater. That helped a lot. 

I got wiser about riding with some gyan given to me by Amit. That made my life more easier. I was able to work my bike to my satisfaction. The trick was in changing gears and to shift down as I negotiated the twists and turns. This helped me to keep control of the bike  with effective engine braking and maintaining the lines easily.

The day had both climb up and downs with the the twists and turns getting tighter and we had to keep the lines well in control, we were riding some parts on a single lane road and we had no margin for error. 

I was able gather good speed and yet be safe. 

Loved every bit of riding on day 2. 

We had a fuel stop, a coffee stop, a photo op stop and a stop at the Wat Rong Khun (The white temple Wat_Rong_Khun)

A Lanna old woman selling sweet potatoes & corn

A coffee shop with a great view

Posing at a photo op

Group at Wat Rong Khun

After a nice ride and some sightseeing, we checked into a lovely hotel at Chiang Rai, The Riverine  (https://www.theriverie.com/)

After all that ride I had earned a good Thai massage at the spa in the hotel and was followed by a Thai dinner at “Night bazar” food court (https://share.google/OoiPx5tFIlV0WnFoA) having live music and Northern Thailand dance performed.

Hotel Riverine Chian Rai

A travel by “Tuk Tuk” to the Night Bazaar food court 

Day 3 at Chiang Rai

It was supposed to be a rest day. The riding bug had bitten us. What turned out to be an optional ride was fully subscribed to and all rode to a nice coffee shop in the mountains and that was a 100 kms trip in the mountains with severe ascent and descents. The trip was worth it for a nice coffee and a lovey view.

There was a short water crossing across a check dam and it was some fun doing that. 

The “Highlight” of the day was one of our teammate dropping his bike on a steep gradient (These things are common on bike tours and it is important that the person is not injured). While his bike got bit of a damage, his ego was pretty bruised - I’m sure, as I would have felt the same

Posing withAmit Desai

Khun George 

The Cafe

The group

Water crossing

Assessing the damage

Day 4 - Chiang Rai to Maekok river resort (Visit Golden triangle)

This was about 260 kms ride and partly through rough patches of roads (under construction). These were not bad too and they had sprinkled water on the surface to contain the dust, but slippery.

We rode through some twisties (not much) and reached the “Golden triangle point” a point where Thailand, Myanmar & Laos meet. 

(https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Golden_Triangle_(Southeast_Asia)). Learnt a bit of history and geography at the “Opium museum”. Took a boat ride on the Mekong river and we were perhaps in a no man’s “land / Water” between these three countries.

On our way back we had a small detour to visit a nice tea garden called Fooshouk and as it was a wide straight road with the last 2 kms detour, I missed the turn and did not see the “Corner marker” (A concept known to group bikers. When the lead takes a turn off the main road and turning intersections, he places the immediate rider behind him as a “corner marker” and that person should guide all to turn appropriately and wait till the last biker (called “sweep”) to come. He can move ahead after he gets an affirmative from the Sweep).

I was merrily speeding on this highway and did not see my fellow team members either in front or back of me. Decided to stop and check with the sweep (Amit). He called at the same time and I realised the mistake. In these conditions it is better to send the location and stay put at that place till some one comes and pick you up. I followed that drill. Our lead, Khun George came and picked me up and I had over shot the turn by about 4 kms. 

Ended up late at the tea garden and gulped some “Iced Oolong honey lemon tea” and started again to ride to our final destination for the day and it was another lovely resort named “Maekok river village resort” (https://maekok-river-village-resort.com/). An oil massage, a Thai dinner & with a call to Anita finished that day when “I got lost”.

The “Golden triangle”.

Posing in front of the golden triangle point 

The Opium museum

A lunch spot overlooking backwaters of a dam

Day 5 - Maekok river resort to Pai (The Mae Hong Son loop)

We start serious riding today on Day 5. We take on the challenge and in these  three days  we do the Mae Hong Son Loop.

The loop takes you through lush jungle, rice terraces, and high mountain vistas, with views of the country's highest peak, Doi Inthanon.

It includes the towns of Pai and Mae Hong Son, and often continues to Mae Sariang.

The roads are well-maintained for the most part, but are famous for being tight, winding, and sometimes steep, which can be difficult for inexperienced riders. It is considered the "holy grail" of Northern Thailand motorcycling, offering an authentic experience of the region's mountainous interior and unique culture.

We started off early and it was very misty and cold. We wore rain jacket over the riding jacket and I had anti fog sprayed to the helmet visor & my eye glasses. 

We did this ride at an easy pace. Stopped at a fruit market tasted some local fruits, had coffee & then moved to a nice restaurant called “Bhagava” to have our lunch. 

At the Fruit market

Post that we started off in earnest “The Ride”.

The incident 

As we were doing large sweeping turns, I was conscious of the deceptively easy looking curves. 

Still I erred. A fraction of a second lapse ended me skidding and falling off the bike at around 70 kmph. 

I was thrown off the bike & started to slide on the bitumen Tarmac surface for a few meters. My instinct was to get into a foetal position and roll towards the mid barrier (to avoid and mishap from any vehicular traffic coming behind me).

Damaged riding pant 

Look at the handle bar protector

The riding gear that I invested in saved me. My knee protector was completely abraded . My shoulder pads and elbow pads came to my rescue. 

Surprisingly, I was very calm and knew what I had to do. 

I slowly got up tested my legs and moved quickly to the mid road Barrier to catch my breath. Couple of deep breaths and I was clear. Saw that my co-rider who was ahead of me knew of my fall and was parking his bike to assist me. In the meantime, I was cautioning / directing the traffic behind me to another lane so that all are safe. 

Our back up van with Khun Bom at wheels came and stopped, lifted the bike and took it to the side. We examined my body damage. Not much given the speed of fall. Some bruise on the right knee and right hand thumb had some concussion (I thought). I gathered myself and felt confident that I can ride again. Started riding again!

At the next coffee stop, others were anxiously waiting. Got some first aid done. 

Looked bad. But just scraped 

Was strongly advised against riding. Bike was loaded onto the van and I completed the day travelling in the van with Khun Bom.

Bike in the van 

 Evening visit to the hospital at Pai confirmed a dislocation & fracture. They put a cast & that was the end of my biking portion of this trip.

At Pai hospital 

Day 6 - Pai to Fern resort Mae Hon Son

Day 7 Fern resort to Ching Mai

While these were not my riding days, I had a “Ring side view”. Sitting next to Khun Bom. 

Seated in the van

At the long neck village

Boat ride to the long neck village

 I ended my Riding portion of my trip and covered two days as a “Tourist” visiting Thailand. 

Lessons learnt

They say that “you can’t teach an old dog new tricks”. I proved it wrong. 

I had many learnings on this trip. 

Learnt the lines, body turns, bends, engine braking effectively. Need for focus and concentration in riding. 

The last one is something that I’ll never forget as I have paid for this lesson with a fracture & dislocated bone. 

Conclusion

My first “outside of India” was wonderful experience, unforgettable in many ways. As is said, we have to do a “Hamsaksheera nyaaya “ and take the good portions and leave the bad or as in Vipassana taught to say “Aniccha” be equanimous and move on. 

“Girte hain shahsawār hi maidan‑e‑jang mein,  

Woh tifl kya gire jo ghutno ke bal chale.”

(Thanks Avinder ji)